Dukes Magpie Hill Riesling 2023

Awards and Accolades

97 Points Ray Jordan

Now firmly established as one of a handful of Australia’s greatest rieslings. This is another beautiful wine. It’s slightly friendlier than the awesome ’22, but lacks nothing in intensity and drive. Fine lift of wet granite, crunchy quartz and fine lemon and spicy pear on the nose. The palate is so complex and intricately woven with passionfruit, guava, green apple skin and light talcy bath salts. Fine with a precise fine acidity extending to a relentless finish.

96 Points Robert Parker Wine Advocate

A complex combination of floral, stony and exotic aromas, including citrus blossom, orchard fruit, spice and the wine’s distinctive curry-leaf character.

95 Points The Real Review

The wine was recorded by Duke’s Vineyard as ranking number three among 30 Australian Rieslings from the 2023 vintage at the time of review. The review noted fragrant herbal and citrus characters, a light but intensely flavoured palate, tangy acidity and excellent persistence.

94 Points Halliday Wine Companion

Acid hounds, line up! This is a brittle and tense riesling of super limey/tart lemony flavour profile, a very compact, rapier-like thrust across the palate and vividly refreshing. Skeletal and bony, it’s terrifically taut and precise with excellent flavour extension. Drinking this in its vivid youth delivers a tightly wound expression; cellaring should deliver a more mellow, relaxed wine. For now, strap in, it’s goosebumps stuff with its citrus impact, but great for it, too.

Tasting Notes

• Appearance: Pale straw with youthful green highlights.
• Aromatics: Asian pear, nectarine and fresh citrus are layered with citrus blossom, delicate herbs and a distinctive touch of curry leaf.
• Complexity: Subtle notes of crushed stone, floral spice and savoury botanicals emerge as the wine opens in the glass.
• Palate: Dry, concentrated and finely structured, with pear, nectarine and citrus carried by energetic natural acidity.
• Texture: Light-bodied but layered, with a fine mineral quality giving the palate shape and definition.
• Finish: Long, focused and persistent, leaving citrus, stone fruit, herbs and gentle spice lingering after each sip.

Wine Details

• Vintage: 2023
• Variety: Riesling
• Region: Great Southern, Western Australia
• Subregion: Porongurup
• Producer: Duke’s Vineyard
• Wine: Magpie Hill Reserve Riesling
• Style: Dry, concentrated and mineral-driven
• Alcohol: 12.3%
• Volume: 750ml
• Key flavours: Asian pear, nectarine and curry leaf
• Production: A small crop of exceptionally high-quality fruit
• Serving temperature: 8 to 10°C
• Cellaring: Enjoy now or cellar for approximately 10 to 15 years

The Small 2023 Crop

• Duke’s Vineyard describes 2023 as a small crop of fantastic quality.
• Lower yields do not automatically guarantee better wine, but when the remaining fruit ripens evenly, a smaller crop can produce grapes with greater flavour concentration and intensity.
• That concentration is apparent in the Magpie Hill Reserve Riesling. The wine has the freshness expected from Porongurup, but there is also considerable depth beneath its citrus and orchard-fruit flavours.
• The result is a Riesling that combines immediate aromatic appeal with the structure required for long-term development.

The Magpie Hill Vineyard

• Duke’s Vineyard is situated at the western foot of the ancient granite Porongurup Range in Western Australia’s Great Southern wine region.
• The ten-hectare estate was originally planted in 1999. Riesling has become one of its defining varieties, producing wines noted for their concentration, freshness and distinctive mineral character.
• The vineyard benefits from soils that combine effective drainage with the ability to retain sufficient moisture for the vines. This balance helps control excessive growth while supporting even ripening through the growing season.
• A spring-fed dam and runoff from the neighbouring national park provide the estate with a valuable water source.

Serving and Cellaring

• Serve Duke’s Vineyard Magpie Hill Reserve Riesling at approximately 8 to 10°C.
• If the wine has been stored in a refrigerator at around 4 to 5°C, remove it approximately 10 to 15 minutes before serving. Allowing it to warm slightly will make its pear, nectarine, floral and herbal aromas easier to appreciate.
• Decanting is not necessary. However, opening the bottle shortly before serving and allowing the wine several minutes in the glass will help its more complex aromas emerge.
• The wine can be enjoyed now for its youthful fruit, energetic acidity and mineral precision. It also has the concentration and structure to develop over approximately 10 to 15 years under suitable storage conditions.
• With time, its fresh citrus, pear and nectarine flavours should gradually evolve towards toast, preserved lemon, dried herbs, honey and savoury complexity.
• For cellaring, keep the bottles somewhere cool, dark and temperature stable.

Food Pairing 

• Fresh oysters: The wine’s citrus and mineral characters complement the clean, saline flavour of freshly shucked oysters.
• Grilled prawns: Riesling’s acidity balances sweet shellfish, particularly when served with lemon, lime or fresh herbs.
• Sashimi and sushi: Its clean structure and delicate fruit work well with raw fish, rice and subtle wasabi heat.
• Thai salads: Try it with green papaya salad, larb or dishes containing lime, chilli and fresh herbs.
• Light curries: The curry-leaf and exotic spice characters make it an interesting match for coconut-based seafood or vegetable curries.
• Roast chicken: Lemon and herb roasted chicken complements the wine’s citrus, orchard-fruit and herbal flavours.
• Fresh cheeses: Goat cheese, feta and other gently tangy cheeses work well with its acidity and mineral finish.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Duke’s Magpie Hill Reserve Riesling 2023 dry?

Yes. This is a dry Riesling with concentrated fruit balanced by fresh natural acidity. Its ripe pear and nectarine flavours can create an impression of fruit sweetness, but the overall style remains dry, focused and refreshing.

Does the wine contain curry leaf?

No. Curry leaf is a tasting descriptor rather than an ingredient. It describes a subtle aromatic character reminiscent of fresh curry leaves. This herbal note adds complexity alongside the wine’s pear, nectarine, citrus and floral aromas.

Is the wine spicy?

The wine is not spicy in the same way as food containing chilli. The spice descriptions refer to aromatic details such as curry leaf, white pepper and other fragrant botanicals. These characters sit behind the fruit and contribute complexity rather than heat.

What does mineral-driven mean?

“Mineral-driven” describes a wine that has flavours or textures reminiscent of stone, chalk, flint or saline freshness. Wine does not literally taste of vineyard rocks. The term is used to explain the dry, focused and slightly stony impression created by its acidity, fruit and texture. In this wine, the mineral character helps balance the ripe pear and nectarine flavours.

What makes this a Reserve Riesling?

The Magpie Hill Reserve Riesling is one of Duke’s Vineyard’s flagship wines. The Reserve designation indicates a more concentrated, complex and cellar-focused expression within the Duke’s range. It is made to show the depth and long-term potential of the Magpie Hill site.

Is this the same as Duke’s Single Vineyard Riesling?

No. The Magpie Hill Reserve Riesling and Duke’s Single Vineyard Riesling are separate wines. The Single Vineyard Riesling provides an accessible expression of the estate and region. Magpie Hill Reserve sits above it in the range, with greater concentration, complexity and emphasis on cellaring potential.

How long can I cellar it?

The wine’s concentration and acidity make it suitable for extended cellaring. A period of approximately 10 to 15 years is a reasonable guide under suitable conditions, taking the wine through the 2030s. As it develops, expect its fresh fruit to become more savoury, with potential notes of toast, preserved citrus, honey and dried herbs.

Does Riesling improve with age?

Well-made Riesling is one of the longest-lived white wine varieties. Its natural acidity helps preserve freshness while the flavours gradually become more complex. Young Riesling emphasises citrus, flowers and fresh orchard fruit, while mature bottles can develop toast, honey, dried herbs and preserved-lemon characters. Whether it is better young or mature depends on personal preference.