Review – Wine Companion

Has the usual estate blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and malbec (92/4/3/1%), the grapes hand picked on fruit days between early February and early March, the components matured in French oak (50% new) for 13 months. The perfumed bouquet has already soaked up the new oak, the purity of the fruit in a cassis-redcurrant-blueberry spectrum. The small berries of a quasi-drought summer might have imposed awkward tannins, but the medium-bodied palate is so perfectly balanced it has a drinking span of 30 years and counting. James Halliday

Learn More About Cullen Winery

Cullen Wines is a Western Australian winery based in Wilyabrup, within the Margaret River wine region of Western Australia. A long standing 5-star Halliday winery, it is consistently winning awards and highly regarded by many as of the region’s best.

In early 1965, Kevin and Diana Cullen began exploring alternative uses for their land and soon considered cultivating lupins. To further investigate this idea, they reached out to Dr John Gladstones, a respected figure in agricultural research and a senior lecturer at the University of Western Australia, who had studied lupins extensively during his postgraduate research.

At that time, Dr Gladstones was also deep into his research on viticulture, having recently published his 1965 paper titled “The Climate and Soils of Southwestern Australia in Relation to Vine Growing.” This work was soon followed by his influential 1966 paper, “Soil and Climate of the Margaret River–Busselton Area: Their Suitability for Wine Grape Production.” In these papers, he identified the Margaret River region as possessing characteristics comparable to the world’s premier wine regions.

Invited by Kevin and Diana, Dr Gladstones visited their property in Wilyabrup during the spring of 1965, even before his first paper was published. According to Diana, upon surveying the land, Dr Gladstones remarked, “Oh, you’re mad growing cattle and sheep; why don’t you grow grapes?” While Kevin and Diana had contemplated grape growing since 1956, this encouragement provided the impetus they needed to act. In July 1966, Kevin galvanised support for a local meeting in Busselton, inviting Bill Jamieson from the Agricultural Department and Dr Gladstones to speak. His enthusiasm drew an impressive crowd of over 100 attendees, all interested in the potential of viticulture in the area.

Despite Kevin’s strong commitments to the Busselton community, he and Diana were eager to initiate a test planting with vine cuttings they had secured from the Swan River Research Station. In 1966, they organised the planting of the first vines in collaboration with friends and colleagues. Unfortunately, during their absence, a misunderstanding led to the fledgling vines being mistakenly sprayed with poison and subsequently removed from the ground without their knowledge.

Determined, Kevin and Diana undertook another vine planting in 1971, this time on their own land in Wilyabrup, where their vineyard still thrives today. In 1995, the adjacent Mangan Vineyard was established and farmed biodynamically by Cullen Estate. Both vineyards contribute exclusively to the Cullen vintages produced each year.

Cullen Wines is celebrated not only for its outstanding wines but also for its unwavering commitment to biodynamic viticulture. This holistic approach to farming emphasises the interconnectedness of the vineyard’s ecosystem, incorporating organic practices and a deep respect for the land. By utilising natural composts, herbal teas, and the principles of lunar planting, Cullen Wines aims to enhance soil health, promote biodiversity, and cultivate grapes that truly express the unique terroir of the Margaret River region.

The winery produces a diverse range of wine styles, each reflecting the distinctive characteristics of its terroir. The flagship Diana Madeline Cabernet Merlot is renowned for its rich complexity and elegance, showcasing dark fruit flavours, fine tannins, and a subtle oak influence that enhances its structure. Meanwhile, the Kevin John Chardonnay exemplifies the best of Margaret River, featuring vibrant acidity, stone fruit notes, and a creamy mouthfeel, often achieving accolades for its finesse and balance.

Cullen Wines’ winemaking philosophy is rooted in minimal intervention. The team believes in allowing the grapes to speak for themselves, letting the terroir shine through in each vintage. Hand-picked grapes are gently crushed, with wild fermentation processes employed to enhance the wine’s character. The use of natural yeasts and careful ageing in French oak barrels allows for the development of complex flavours while maintaining the purity of the fruit.

Furthermore, the winery embraces sustainable practices beyond biodynamics, focusing on water conservation, energy efficiency, and waste reduction. This dedication to environmental stewardship not only enhances the quality of the wines but also contributes to the health of the broader ecosystem. As a result, Cullen Wines stands as a beacon of excellence in the Australian wine industry, combining traditional winemaking techniques with innovative sustainable practices, all while crafting wines of exceptional quality that resonate with authenticity and character.

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