Moss Wood Pinot Noir 2023

Reviews and Accolades

97 Points: Ray Jordan

Ray Jordan rates the 2023 among the finest Pinot Noirs Moss Wood has made.

His review highlights its combination of power and subtlety, with vibrant floral, cherry and raspberry aromatics leading into a finely integrated and beautifully textured palate. Bright red fruit is supported by precise acidity and a fine chalky quality.

96 Points: Sam Kim, Wine Orbit

Sam Kim found a generous yet sophisticated Pinot Noir with dark cherry, florals, clove, porcini mushroom and roasted nut complexity.

He praised its excellent weight, refined texture, integrated tannins and persistent finish, recommending an ideal drinking window from 2030 to 2041.

95 Points: Huon Hooke, The Real Review

Huon Hooke noted its bright purple tint, dark cherry, spice and distinctive gumleaf aromatics.

The palate impressed with its intensity, drive, precision and length. He considered it a structured Pinot Noir with significant future potential.

95 Points: Edward Agg, The Cellar Post

Edward Agg considered it one of the best Moss Wood Pinot Noirs he had tasted.

He highlighted crunchy red berries, plum, cherry, florals, cinnamon, tobacco and oak spice, supported by tightly coiled acidity, fine tannins and impressive detail.

Tasting Notes

• Appearance: Medium ruby, bright and clear.
• Aromatics: Lifted strawberry, cherry and cranberry are joined by rose petal, musk and quince.
• Savoury complexity: Earth, mushroom, clove and subtle spice sit beneath the bright fruit, bringing classic Pinot Noir complexity.
• Palate: Medium-bodied and concentrated, with generous strawberry and cherry supported by plum, rhubarb and cranberry.
• Structure: Lively acidity and firm but supple tannins give the wine balance, energy and excellent ageing potential.
• Oak: Lightly toasted French oak contributes restrained cedar, clove and smoky notes without overwhelming the fruit.
• Finish: Long and poised, with persistent red fruit, spice, fine tannins and a subtle earthy character.

Wine Details

• Vintage: 2023
• Variety: 100% Pinot Noir
• Region: Margaret River, Western Australia
• Subregion: Wilyabrup
• Vineyard: Moss Wood Estate Vineyard
• Vineyard history: Pinot Noir planted in 1973
• Release: 46th Moss Wood Pinot Noir and 45th consecutive vintage
• Harvest date: 27 February 2023
• Harvest ripeness: 13.3° Baume
• Yield: 5.15 tonnes per hectare
• Harvesting: Handpicked and carefully sorted
• Whole bunches: 20%
• Cold soak: 48 hours
• Time on skins: 16 days
• Oak: French oak barriques for 18 months
• New oak: 18%
• Fining: Unfined
• Alcohol: 14.0%
• Closure: Screwcap
• Bottled: 25 October 2024
• Cellaring: Full maturity expected from approximately 2043 and potentially beyond
• Serving temperature: Approximately 14 to 16°C

Margaret River’s Oldest Pinot Noir Vineyard

Pinot Noir is not the grape variety most people immediately associate with Margaret River. Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay receive much of the attention, but Moss Wood has a Pinot Noir history that stretches back more than five decades.

The variety was planted at Moss Wood in 1973, making it the oldest Pinot Noir vineyard in Margaret River. The first wine was produced in 1977.

Only one vintage was missed. In 1978, the crop was lost during Margaret River’s first serious bird attack. Every vintage since has been made, making this one of Australia’s longest-running continuous Pinot Noir stories.

The 2023 is Moss Wood’s 46th release and its 45th consecutive Pinot Noir. Few Australian producers, including those in regions better known for the variety, can match that history.

This experience has allowed Moss Wood to develop a recognisable house style. It is generally more generous and structured than very cool-climate Pinot Noir, while retaining the perfume, freshness, savoury complexity and fine tannins that define the variety.

The Excellent 2023 Vintage

The 2023 Margaret River season provided calm and measured growing conditions that were particularly well suited to Pinot Noir.

Rainfall during 2022 was approximately nine per cent above average, ensuring the dry-grown vines entered the season with excellent soil moisture. Flowering conditions were generally favourable, and the rainfall that did arrive was light and well spaced.

Summer remained mild and steady. The average temperature from flowering to harvest was 19.61°C, while periods of extreme heat were brief.

This allowed the vines to ripen gradually over 106 days from flowering to harvest, slightly longer than usual for the vineyard. The fruit was harvested six days later than the long-term average.

Yields were approximately 17 per cent below average, but the fruit arrived in excellent condition, with no disease, bird damage or sunburn.

The result is a Pinot Noir balancing generous fruit with perfume, fine structure and the elegance needed for long-term cellaring.

Winemaking

Every bunch was picked by hand and carefully sorted before processing.

Approximately 80% of the fruit was destemmed into small open fermenters. The remaining 20% was retained as whole bunches to contribute additional perfume, spice and tannin structure.

The fruit received a 48-hour cold soak before fermentation. This cool period gently extracted colour, aroma and flavour from the grape skins before alcohol began forming.

Multiple yeast strains were used during fermentation, with temperatures kept below 32°C. Each small batch was hand-plunged three times per day to manage extraction gently and evenly.

After 16 days on skins, the wine was pressed into stainless steel tanks to complete primary and malolactic fermentation.

The individual batches were then transferred into French oak barriques, including 18% new oak, and matured for 18 months.

Fining trials did not improve the wine, so it was bottled unfined. It received sterile filtration before bottling under screwcap on 25 October 2024.

Serving and Cellaring

Serve Moss Wood Pinot Noir 2023 at approximately 14 to 16°C.

This is cooler than the temperature of most Australian homes. If the bottle has been stored at room temperature, place it in the refrigerator for approximately 30 minutes before serving.

Avoid serving it icy cold, as excessive chilling will suppress its perfume and make the tannins feel firmer.

The wine can be enjoyed now for its vibrant strawberry, cherry and floral characters. However, it remains young and structured. Decanting for approximately one to two hours will help the aromatics open and allow the tannins to relax.

Moss Wood expects the wine to develop classic bottle-aged complexity after approximately eight to ten years. Earth, mushroom, game and forest-floor characters should gradually become more prominent as the primary fruit softens.

The winery expects full maturity at approximately 20 years of age, around 2043, with the potential to continue developing beyond that point under suitable storage conditions.

Food Pairing Suggestions

• Roast duck: The richness of duck works beautifully with the wine’s cherry, cranberry and savoury spice.
• Mushroom risotto: Earthy mushrooms complement the wine’s porcini, forest-floor and lightly smoky characters.
• Pork tenderloin: Pinot Noir’s acidity and supple tannins suit pork served with cherry, plum or apple.
• Crispy-skinned salmon: A fuller Pinot Noir such as this has enough weight for salmon, particularly with mushrooms or lentils.
• Roast chicken: Try it with thyme, sage, garlic and roasted root vegetables.
• Charcuterie: Prosciutto, pâté and mild salami suit its red fruit, spice and savoury structure.
• Soft cheese: Brie, Camembert and washed-rind cheeses pair well with its generous fruit and earthy complexity.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can Margaret River produce high-quality Pinot Noir?

Yes, although the variety is much less common in Margaret River than Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay.

Moss Wood has grown Pinot Noir since 1973 and has more than five decades of experience with the variety. Its style is generally more generous and structured than Pinot Noir from very cool regions, but it retains the perfume, red fruit, savoury complexity and fine tannins associated with the grape.

Is this really Margaret River’s oldest Pinot Noir vineyard?

Moss Wood identifies its 1973 planting as the oldest Pinot Noir vineyard in Margaret River.

The first wine was produced in 1977, and the 2023 is the winery’s 46th Pinot Noir release and 45th consecutive vintage.

Is this a light Pinot Noir?

It is medium-bodied rather than especially light.

The wine has generous strawberry, cherry and plum flavours, but these are balanced by lively acidity, refined tannins and savoury complexity. It offers more concentration and structure than many delicate cool-climate Pinot Noirs.

What does 20% whole bunch mean?

Twenty per cent of the grapes were fermented as complete bunches, including their stems.

This contributes additional perfume, spice and tannin structure, complementing the wine’s floral and red-fruited character.

Is the oak flavour strong?

No. The wine spent 18 months in French oak barriques, but only 18% of those barrels were new.

This gives the wine subtle cedar, clove, roasted nut and smoky complexity without covering its strawberry, cherry and cranberry fruit.

Can I drink it now?

Yes. It is already attractive for its bright fruit and floral perfume.

Because it remains young and structured, decanting it for approximately one to two hours will help the wine become more expressive.

How long can I cellar it?

Moss Wood expects the wine to begin showing mature earthy, mushroom and game characters after eight to ten years.

Full maturity is expected at approximately 20 years of age, around 2043, and well-stored bottles may continue developing beyond that point.

What temperature should Pinot Noir be served at?

Serve it at approximately 14 to 16°C.

This slight chill keeps the fruit fresh and clearly defined while allowing the wine’s perfume and savoury complexity to remain expressive.

Is this wine sold out at Moss Wood?

Yes. The 2023 Pinot Noir is currently sold out through the winery, so remaining bottles are likely to become increasingly difficult to find.